Madagascar jasmine
Also known as
Stephanotis, Bridal wreath, Wedding vine, Hawaiian wedding flower
Keep this plant’s care guide close at hand.
Get the appAbout Madagascar jasmine
Stephanotis floribunda is an evergreen, woody climber native to Madagascar, prized for its intensely fragrant, waxy white tubular flowers borne in clusters from spring to late summer. Glossy, leathery, opposite leaves clothe long twining stems that readily climb trellises, hoops, or supports, making it ideal for conservatories and bright indoor spaces. The flowers, often used in bridal bouquets and leis, open pure white and slowly cream with age, releasing a rich, jasmine-like perfume most noticeable in the evening. Plants prefer evenly warm conditions, high but gentle light, and steady humidity; they are sensitive to abrupt environmental changes and dislike cold, waterlogged soils, or being moved while in bud. Given a porous, slightly acidic mix, regular feeding, and careful watering, established vines can bloom annually. The plant exudes a milky latex sap typical of Apocynaceae; handle gently when pruning and provide a firm support for training. Indoors, it is considered a moderately demanding but rewarding flowering vine when its light, temperature, and humidity needs are met.
Taxonomy
Properties & Requirements
How to care for Madagascar jasmine
Water
Keep the mix evenly moist in active growth: allow the top 2–3 cm (about 1 inch) to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly until excess drains. Never leave the pot standing in water, as soggy roots lead to leaf yellowing and bud drop. Reduce frequency in winter but do not let the root ball fully dry. Use room‑temperature, low‑mineral water if possible. Consistent moisture—not extremes—supports reliable flowering and overall vigor.
Light
Give bright, filtered light with 2–4 hours of gentle morning sun. An east window, or a south window with sheer curtain, is ideal; avoid harsh midday summer sun that can scorch leaves. Low light reduces flowering; high light without overheating yields best blooms. Once buds form, keep orientation steady—frequent moving or rotating can cause buds to yellow and drop.
Nutrients
Feed from early spring to late summer with a balanced, water‑soluble fertilizer at half strength every 2–4 weeks. When buds form, switch to a potassium‑rich formulation (e.g., tomato feed) to support flowering. Avoid heavy, constant high nitrogen, which promotes foliage at the expense of blooms. Do not fertilize dry soil; water first, then feed. Pause feeding in autumn–winter when growth slows, and flush the potting mix with plain water monthly to prevent salt buildup.
Temperature
Aim for warm days (18–26°C/65–79°F) and slightly cooler nights (15–18°C/59–64°F) to encourage bud set. Provide a cooler, bright winter rest around 13–16°C (55–61°F). Protect from cold drafts and avoid sudden shifts; prolonged exposure below 12–13°C (54–55°F) can cause leaf drop. In hot spells above 30°C (86°F), raise humidity and ensure air movement to prevent bud abortion.
